I
Saturday
11th of
August 2012.
I
leave home to Paris. Then Miami, Seattle and Missoula Montana,
first American show in the U.S.A.
Since
I have nothing better to do and some friends invited me to join, I’m
back on the road.
As
usual with mixed feelings and day dreams. As usual with no more
planning than one or two days ahead. With God will I will reach New
York on the 2nd of august to fly back to France with some tales to
tell.
In
Paris I visit the Louvre. I could live in that museum for years and
still be impressed. Ingres, Greuze, Boucher, Pannini … what life
they live and what treasures they left behind!
I
spend the night in a Youth Hostel before reaching Charles De Gaulle
Airport. A nice flight to Miami, many hours to wait before catching a
night flight to Seattle. I brought with me the `Devilish Poet`
(Arthur Rimbaud) and his `season in hell`.
II
13th of
August 2012.
In
Seattle I’m supposed to meet with Dave to get a ride to Missoula.
It` s a bit chilly now.
From
the airport I take a urban train to downtown Seattle then a bus to
Issaquah, a nice little area. I buy myself some food in a RedApple
store, take a quick breakfast and start to pace around in the parking
lot hoping for the best. I’m looking for a car with a license plate
saying `Dylan 61`.
At
8.00 p.m. Dave and a friend Jeff are pulling in the parking lot. We
rapidly take the road to Missoula.
A
quick stop at a scenic point overlooking the Columbus river.
Gorgeous! Then a stop for lunch. All together a 8 hours of pleasant
ride. Dave is an excellent driver. We check in an Ecolodge Hotel. D.
will check in later at night. I go to sleep right away.
III
14th of
August Missoula, Montana
The
show tonight will be GA. Jeff and Johnny want to start the line at
6.oo a.m. and they do. We will take turn keeping the first spot on
the line until the opening of the gates at 6.00 p.m. for a show at
7.30 p.m.
The
day is hot but a cool breeze will blow in the late afternoon and the
security guard is nice enough to let us seat under the shade of a
tree until 5.00 p.m. when everyone will be ready for a run to the
stage.
Except
for a dozen of fanatics the crowd is quite. Later C. and S. will
arrive as well as John and Mia.
The run is okay and I’m second
after Jeff to reach the rail. I place myself right in front of the
mike. S. and C. arrive shortly after me and Lionel a young musician
will be on my right.
I finally relax for no one, nothing will
disturb me to see my Bobby tonight.
8.10p.m. Stu picks up his
guitar for his blues riffs, Bobby trots to his keyboard ; white/gray
hat, Raybans on (the sun set is right in his eyes), white shirt,
beautiful dark jacket with red straps, white pants, white boots, pale
but not too `puffy`.
`Leopard skin…` well done by the Band. That
will be a good show.
I’m happy to see the Boys again, Stu
is looking good and Charlie is equal to himself. George is in good
spirit, smiling. It seams that Donnie changed his hair cut.
`Tangled
up in blue`. I believe Bob changed the lyrics again for he has a good
laugh with Tony.
`Things have changed` center mike and if his
Raybans have correcting lenses he should see me for I’m right in
front of him.
Unfortunately my view of him on the piano is
blocked by the keyboard. I see his left leg doing crazy jumps on its
own.
`Love
minus zero/no limit` but on the piano.
He will pick up his guitar
only for `Simple twist of fate`.
` Tweedle Dee & Tweedle Dum`,
`Summer days`, `Thunder on the mountain`, `visions of Johanna`,
`Spirit on the water`..
The first row is happily on the rail, the
second row dancing on the Rock/Blues.
This is an American
audience, everybody with respect a breathing space and we are not
packed like sardines. We should not be more than 4000. As big as Bob
Dylan name is, he doesn’t attract too many people at his
shows.
`Blowing in the wind` and that’s it. So many hours on the
line… it doesn’t seem right.
IV
15th/16th
of August. Red Lodge
The
Billings’ show had been canceled and no one knows why. I will
travel with D.and Tony from Seattle for they invited me for a
fishing party at Tony’s cousin home somewhere in Montana, next to
Billings. We have a pleasant 5 hours ride and almost run out of
gas.
The evening for me is interesting but confusing. Tony`s
cousin is a really nice woman. The house is huge and richly decorated
and furnished. They prepare a grill of steak. I’m mainly
vegetarian! Then they talk talks that are none of my concern. I try
to write but I’m disturbed and confused. I feel out of place and
`abandoned`. Bob Dylan is just a subject of conversation with no
passion.
I retrieve to a splendid bedroom that I will share
with D.. I grab a blanket from the car and crash on the white
carpeted floor. I cry for my Bobby! I’m wondering what he gonna do
on those 2 days off. Ride his Harley Davidson with Barron or Tony?
In
Missoula I checked the venue parking lot in the afternoon and saw the
musicians` bus puling in with a huge trailer attached to it. It’s
supposed to be where the bikes are.
We get up early for an
American breakfast, say bye to Willie then D. drives Tony
and myself to Tony‘s cabin in RedLodge, we’ll be going fishing in
the afternoon. I bring my book and take a nap on the river bank,
“watching the river flow”. The afternoon will end up with a
pizza.
V
17th
of August
Rapid
City, South
Dakota
We
leave RedLodge at 10.00 a.m. It’s 8 hours drive to Rapid City for a
show at 8.00 p.m. Tony decided to stay with his family so it’s
just D. and myself in the car. We get lost in the middle of
nowhere for 2 hours before reaching H. 90 East. I get a little bit
nervous for we’re loosing time and we take the risk to break the
car in those dirt roads. Nonetheless we reach the venue at 6.30 p.m.
Right timing. I can see the buses in the parking lot. I check around
the white trailer behind the musicians` bus. It’s open. I see three
motorbikes ; a beautiful powerful Harley and two more in the front.
Tony Garnier will drive around on his bike, with I believe, Jeff
Kramer, and they’re trying to fit Tony’s bike inside the trailer.
A Dylan Fan who is also a biker will comment on Tony’s bike for me.
I see “Big Bob” and Barron taking guard around the bus. Charlie
will be smoking his cigarette and talking on the phone. I manage to
say hello to George. Bobby must be in his bus close to the backstage
entrance door.
I move inside the venue by 8.00 p.m. Take my seat,
third row center. The atmosphere is calm. I say hello to J., meet
with Dave, Jeff and Johnny. They are first row center and rapidly
stand up by the rail. I climb one row over and find myself right in
front of the center mike. Bob will do the entire show without a hat,
except for the encore. White pants, white boots, white shirt.
He
will use the guitar on `Simple twist of fate`, be center for `Things
have changed`, `Tangled up in blue`, `Ballad of a thin man`, `Blowing
in the wind`. Anytime else he’ll be seated at the piano, playing
for himself. He doesn’t smile so much, no hilarious laugh with
Tony!
At some point I see him lining on the piano, like he can’t
stand on his feet. Might be my imagination!
The set list is fine,
nothing new but a beautiful `High water` and `Desolation row` ,
`Highway 61` is revisited a bit, less chaotic maybe, Stu is doing
good on his guitar. The sound is good and his voice really clear. I
sing along on `To Ramona` , `Simple twist of fate`. I step right in
front of the stage for `Blowing in the wind`. He will start on piano
then move front for the final on harmonica. I’m right in front of
Bob for Dave and Johnny were nice enough to give me the rail. Bob
looks at me, I’m not sure if he can see me or even want to see me!
He doesn’t smile or anything just stare in the space. I wish he
could send that kiss he sent in Brazilia. He looked so happy then. He
doesn’t tonight. At some point he, again, put his hand on Charlie’s
shoulder like in Missoula. How are we supposed to translate that
gesture?
After the show D. wants to take some drinks
with friends so we go to the Holiday Inn bar. The conversation runs
on forever. I’m overtired and still suffering from the Jet-lag. I
crash on a sofa at 1.00 a.m. I sleep until 6.30 a.m.
VI
18th
of August Sioux Falls, South Dakota
We
have to hit the road early for we have 5 or 6 hours drive to Sioux
Falls. We take time for a breakfast with Frankie, D. `
aunt, who was nice enough to offer us some accommodations. I take a
breakfast of pancakes and syrup and off we rock and roll down the
road; H. 90 East.
Reaching Sioux Falls at 6.30 p.m. I immediately
check on the crew trucks and buses. Bobby’s bus is parked over
there with Al Santos pacing around. No sign of “Big Bob” or
Barron or any bike.
I
meet again with Dave, Johnny and Jeff and J. and C./S.. We all move
in. My seat is 14th row
but quickly I find an opportunity to move 4th row
center. No one will claim that seat tonight. My luck!
Shortly
after 8.oo p.m. Stu moves on for his riffs of blues. Bobby appears
hat less and tired for what I can tell.
No more surprise; ‘Leopard
skin …`. In the course of the routine, seated at the NEW grand
piano Bob will start `This dream of you` beautifully articulated and
so sweet. Also `Hattie Carole`. The crowd is enthusiastic. The energy
will mount a bit with two picks ; `Highway 61` well reinforce with
Stu’s guitar and `Thunder on the mountain` also well underlined
with Stu’s guitar, sounding a bit like a saxo of some kind, or is
it the steel guitar of Donnie, over there in the back, behind the
great piano?
`A hard rain`s gonna fall` sounds like it’s the end
of the world, apocalyptic.
Bob is in a dark and moody mood ; no
smile with Donnie, no laugh with Tony, no look at the crowd.
Fortunately I have a good view at the piano seeing Bob’s face and
left leg going up and down. Is he conscious of that weird attitude?
No more pulling his pants, no more touching the back of his hair but
he’s less and less front stage, though he will do `Simple twist of
fate` and will step front for the last part of `Blowing in the wind`.
The last salute is impersonal.
We
all move out, the hard core fans a bit deceived for he didn’t
change the set list too much. The routine tonight. D.wants to
drink vine with friends so I take a nap inside the car, wrapped in a
warm blanket. At midnight and so we reach the campground to pull up a
tent but I will sleep or try to sleep in the car. Only for
three or four hours.
Mr
Jones and Mia are there too. We’ll be talking until late at night.
VII
19th
of August Fargo, North Dakota
We
got up at 8.00 a.m. a bit too late for me but `what has to be will
be` a quick refill of gas and coffee and on H. 29 N. up to
Fargo. D.wants me to take a bunch of photos, I obliged. We
listen to music, enjoy the dry land and reach Fargo before 2.00 p.m.
heading for the venue right away. Less than 20 freaks are camping out
in front the venue, people I know and people I don't know but for now
the atmosphere is friendly. That will change as time passes and more
fans will come to queue. Matt is here. Tony will arrive later on his
Greyhound bus that broke down on the highway. Poor Tony!
I buy
myself a ticket for 50$ (I could have done better). D. got
a room at the Howard Johnson right behind the venue for tonight. So
nothing to worry about, just wait on the line and pray for the
best.
I put a ground sheet on the floor and an heavy blanket as a
mattress. Some water, a good book and I fall asleep on the spot. It's
hot but comfortable. There will be 4 lines forming all along the
afternoon. I check by the back stage door at 4.30 p.m. “Big Bob”
is passing by and fro. Something is happening. The musicians` bus is
pulling by the side walk and oh surprise! Bob's bus pulls right in
front of me. I'm chatting on the pavement with Jim (a biker) when
“Big Bob” asks the security guard to push us farther back. We
obliged. 10 minutes later Bob steps out, all hooded and moving really
quickly to the backstage door. I go back laying on my 'bed'. At 5.30
p.m. D. joins me and we're ready for the run.
I run
towards the left side of the center mike, as usual. A stupid guy
right in front of me pretends to fall on the rail, I jump over his
legs. He's, in fact, keeping the rail for two girls, so when the
security guard asks him to stand up he's right at my spot, pushing me
hard, so hard that I can't breath. I'm angry and suffocating. The two
fans on my left are nice enough to give me some space. Great! I relax
and focus on Bob Dylan. As soon as Stu plays his blues riffs I'm
happy again. Bob is trotting to the keyboard for 'Leopard skin ...'
hat-less, looking as pale as a ghost!
The show is good. I'm
enjoying myself, singing and dancing with some freaks around. Bob
doesn't do anything unusual. He's professional but not erratic ; no
fun, no smile. On 'Like a rolling stone' he will stop playing the
piano and looks at George with discuss. Bob is holding his head in
his hands like he's not happy at all. He'll speak out something to
Tony before banging on his piano again. What George did wrong? Nobody
will be able to give an explanation, even later. Bobby was mad (he
was Zimmy) and won't be able to be happy until the end of the show.
These
three shows in a row were 'routine'. Except for the fact that I'm
having a good time on the road with my friends, those shows don't
move me. No more 'Shot of love'. Now I resent the fact that Bob
doesn't relate with his public. It's obvious that he's hiding behind
his grand piano, no contact with the audience. I know he could do
better like in Latin America.
After
the show D. , Tony, S., C. and myself go for a pizza and a
beer. We then retrieve to our rooms for a good night sleep. Jim (the
biker) saw Tony Garnier leaving the venue on his bike. Cool! Did Bob
ride his Harley going to Anhover where he owns a farm? Checking on
his horses? Have a good time my dear!
Next
morning. A day off. C. and S. propose to drive me to Hibbing. Four
hours ride to Hibbing. Five hours ride to Rochester.
VIII
20th
of August HIBBING
We
reach Hibbing in the afternoon and immediately take a walk around.
There is a leaflet with a map of different areas where young Bob
Zimmerman had been. Of course his house at the corner of 22nd street
and what is now Bob Dylan Drive. We take a bunch of photos then we
move to Hibbing High School. A nice choir teacher will give us a
special tour of the school. The gym, but most of all the Theater. She
will pull out the Grand piano on back stage. The same one young Bob
had play on in front of a public.
We walk on the main avenue and
reach different buildings where Robert Zimmerman hanged out. Some
have changed but photos are posted to remind us the old days. We find
the synagogue but they have removed the Star of David and the
Menorah. It ain't a synagogue anymore. No more Zimmermans in town. We
enter the public library to check on the Bob Dylan exhibit. Nice
photos on the walls and my friend Claude Angela Boni's painting.
We're staying a bit too long in there. When we go upstairs the alarm
runs on, we're locked inside. We have a good laugh when the Lady runs
back from the parking lot. She had forgotten all about us!
We
decide to have dinner at Zimmy's cafe. It's dark in there but Bob
Dylan is all over the walls, in photos and posters. His first guitar
(an electric one!) is hanging on the wall. We're only three Dylan
freaks in there. D. and Tony didn't make it to
Hibbing.
We're a little bit deceived about the atmosphere at
Zimmy's. We feel like three fools!
The ‘Bed and Breakfast’ has
a better atmosphere. Nice owner and beautiful room. C. and S.
accepted to share with me. They have a king size bed. I take the
sofa. Peaceful night!
In the early morning we take more photos of
Bob's old house and we'll meet with Linda and Bob the owners of
Zimmy's cafe. We talk for more than one hour. They tell us some nice
stories about B.D.
We then hit the road towards Rochester, down
south St Paul/Minneapolis.
IX
21th
of August Rochester, Minnesota
Arriving
in Rochester slightly before 6.00 p.m. I run from the Holiday Inn
(where C. and S. are checking in) to the venue. Rushing to
meet with Dave in front line. He's holding my ticket. 15 minutes
before the run to the stage.
Matt
is here and Johnny and Tony and D. , later C. and S. will
join and John and Mia.
We run. I hold the rail next to Dave and
Johnny on my right. Two ladies behind me are also kind of following
some shows. D. will hold the rail on the right for two
little girls of 14 and 10 years old. Great! Bobby gonna see some kids
in front! Nice atmosphere tonight. A crowd of 4 or 5 thousands. The
stage is low again, we'll be able to see Bob's boots.
7.40 p.m.
Stu is taking the stage, then the Band then Bob wearing the same
outfit as in Missoula. Nice fluffy hair, no hat. He looks fit, no
puffy face. Though again pale as a ghost.
'Leopard skin ..', 'Love
minus zero/no limit', 'John Brown', 'Visions of Johanna'
other
than that regular set list;
'Tweedle dee and tweedle dum',
'Rolling and tumbling' … and the regular and immutable ten.
The
show is OK but not the best. Stu is playing right in front of me and
Charlie not looking at the crowd (maybe yes). Bob cracks a smile or
two with Tony Garnier but he's not happy nor erratic, except that
left leg going up and down. I see him close. I see only the vacuum of
his eyes. He's the ghost of Bob Dylan. Bobby dear, where are you my
sweetheart?
After the show with C. and S. we're looking for a
place where we could grab a little something to eat. We haven't eaten
all day. I take a French onion soup and a salad. We retrieve to our
Holiday In where I gonna share a room with Tony and D. .
Sweet Tony will sleep next to me. Total friendship. I feel
frustration all over my body! The same frustration I feel sleeping
next to D. !
X
22nd of
August Desmoines, Iowa
No
free breakfast but a washing machine and a dryer are welcome. I wash
my laundry with D. laundry. I move to C. and S.'s room for
a cup of coffee for I will be traveling with them to
Desmoines, Iowa. D. has
got another companion in his car. I'm one too many!
We check out
at 2.00 p.m. Nice ride to DesMoines. We grab a sandwich on the way.
We meet with John and Mia. D. , Matt and Tony are supposed
to go the same direction.
Arriving at 6.30 p.m. we immediately
start the search for a ticket. We want the floor section. At 7.25
p.m. we are all inside. With C. and S. we try to move front but
people will claim their seats and the usher is not so cool! I step 13
rows back and stick with sweet Tony.
'Man in a long black
coat', 'Can't wait'. Two surprises of the show.
I feel
a good energy coming from the stage. Bob's voice is clear and loud.
The Band well together. The show too short. Barron walks by me.
I say 'Hi Barron!'
Right after 'Blowing in the wind' I go back
to D. car for Tony will be flying back home from here and
only D. and Matt are going on. I will then return in D. car
and spend the night in a Comfort Inn in LaClaire with both of them.
XI
23rd of
August
We
leave past noon. we check some antiques store and hit the road to
Fort Wayne. A long ride again. Matt will do the driving. We check in
a Hilton at 9.00 p.m.
I see Jim and Jules, the two Dylan
sound technicians. The crew is staying at the Hilton. Not Bob.
We
take a walk by the venue. Tomorrow is GA and we want to know where
will start the line. Matt and myself go to bed for an early
start, D. will join me in bed later.
XII
24th
of August Fort Wayne, Indiana
We
had decided to be on line at 8.00 a.m.
I get up at 7.00
a.m. and get ready. When I reach the gates of the venue, Maria who we
met the night before is already seated on a blanket. We share. Matt
will join around 9.00 a.m. then five more fans. That will be the same
8 freaks holding the line until 5.30 p.m. Crazy!
We are informed
that there is a pre-sale tickets line. Those tickets allow the
holders to get in at 6.30 p.m., half an hour before the big crowd. Of
course I don't have any ticket and hope for the best.
At 4.30 p.m.
two bikers are passing in front of the venue. The first bike is
Bob's. It's probably Bob riding that huge Harley Davidson. He's
wearing a black helmet. Thanks God!
Shortly after we hear the
sound check and we can have a glance at Bob's cowboy hat, over there
on stage.
Good news arrived in the afternoon. Andre, the main
security venue guard will let the ten first Fans on the line get in
at 6.30 p.m. no matter the ticket we're holding. Thank Andre! So kind
of you! We had been queuing for more than 10 hours...
We rush down
the stairs and through the baseball field. We are necessarily on the
rail. I take the center mike and save some space for S.. The
atmosphere is friendly but the field half empty. Bob Dylan doesn't
fill up his venues anymore!
We drink a lot of water and wait for
Stu. He will appear all dressed in black, as well as Charlie, George,
Donnie, Tony. Bobby finally dressed in a beautiful dark jacket
underlined with green at the collar and sleeves. He looks 'almost'
young and healthy.
'Leopard...' a nice 'Girl of the north
country'. 'Things have changed' center stage. Bobby is right in front
of me but I can hardly see his eyes. I don't know how much he can
see. He doesn't smile. He's wearing the mask of BOB DYLAN.
He'll
spend most of the performance at the piano, invisible to the
audience, hiding from himself. Not a smile not even a grin. The harp
solos are not as strong as they used to be.
He will do 'Forgetful
heart' so sad that I start to cry.
Center stage for 'Simple twist
of fate’. Two fingers of his left hand are bandaged. He cut
himself?
The sound is excellent. I don't forget to sing and dance
as well as some crazy ones around me. The hard core fans are worried
about his energy. He's again 'professional' but visibly not happy.
He
will spend some time saluting the audience. Meaning what? "I'm
yours"? "I'm trying to please you"? I wish he could
please himself.
Charlie winks at S.. Bobby shows no sign of
recognition. I was hoping for a kiss.
We go out for a bite with C.
and S. then back to the Hilton for a good night sleep.
D. will
get in later. Matt is watching some baseball on T.V.
XIII
25th
of August Indianapolis,
Indiana
We
drive Matt to the Amtrak Train Station. He's leaving the tour
temporarily I'm going south to Indianapolis with D. . We'll
meet C./S., John/Mia plus more I'm sure. Tonight the show is reserved
seats at 8.00 p.m. We check in rapidly in a Ramada Inn. Fancy but
what the hell we gonna have a good time. Finally life on the road
appears more fascinating than the shows themselves. What to expect?
My kiss to Bobby Dylan is forever forgotten. I'm not even sure I want
to approach him ; he's ugly, gloomy, sick and looks mean "most
of the time". It's definitely a drag to be a genius.
We're
running late when we park at the zoo parking lot, rushing to get in
the venue on time. Tonight it's reserved seat with a lawn on the
back. D. has a 5th row ticket, myself a lawn ticket. I will
stay with John, Mia, Rolf (John's son) and his 17 years old
friend. We are as close as possible to the stage, standing on a rail.
I say hello to Jim (the sound technician), see Barron rushing to the
security area. I stand there until show time. I see Bob, all dressed
up, walking towards the stage, hat in hands, surrounded by Barron,
“Big Bob” and the Band all dressed in light brown suites. In an
instant Bob is at the keyboard for 'Leopard skin ...'. Because I'm up
with no one in front of me I will dance and sing along the entire
show. Rolf and his friend are enthusiastic, good feelings! The show
is a routine though. No surprise, no smile, no nothing. One hour and
40 minutes and bye bye. I've seen too many shows perhaps. I'm
spoiled. It might sound and look incredible for some fans. The first
row is happy. Bob doesn't perform for me or D.or Matt or C. or
S. ... he performs for an anonymous audience. It could be different
but why should he bother? to learn a new song or to put the piano in
front? He's doing his job as any other entertainer.
We
have another of those shared room with D.who will talk to
anybody except me.
XIV
26th of
August Cincinnati, Ohio
Next
stop is Cincinnati. It will take us the entire day to finally check
in the Days Inn, 10 minutes from the venue. I can't complain for I
don't drive, I share the expenses though and I wish I could be more
part of that trip. They take my "kindness for weakness", D. is
a bit of a 'Macho', he'd prefer to be with a young girl. I understand
but I feel rejected. My opinion on Dylan will also arouse some bad
remarks. I will shut up.
Tonight Leon Russel will be the opening
act. OK, I know the show. I stay out until he's done.
My seat is
on the 7th row pit left. Good seat. I've got D. binoculars
so I'll see the Crazy Old Man face trying to hide behind his
piano.
'Leopard skin ...'. What a surprise???
'Blind Willy Mc
Tell' will save my day. 'High water' will make it for the
night.
Bobby seems to be in a good mood, even dancing a bit
on his sticky legs. He's pointing at some one in his left. That guy
gonna be in heaven believing he's Bob Dylan's friend forever!!! What
an illusion!! I had that illusion... millions years ago!!!
D. takes
a photo of me, I say
-'I look old'
he says
-'you
are old'.
That will kill me for the rest of the Tour. I fell
down from my cloud right there! The world appears as it is ; ugly,
materialistic, old, cold and prejudiced. I'm an old woman following
an insane Star believing he's GOD.
D. , you killed me,
my friend!
D.doesn't know how much he hurt me. He's not
connected to feelings, he's connected to Ipads, Iphones, computers,
cameras ... the High Tech man. The long distance communications have
destroyed all sense of humanity.
I cry inside myself and at times
the tears are coming out.
I'd prefer to travel on my own but
I knew that Tour would have been impossible to make without a car and
a driver. That was a lesson.
The
show ended up with a surprise. For the 'encore' four women are taking
place around the center mike. The lights are on with Bob on piano for
'Blowing in the wind'. The girls are making the harmonies.
Right
after the show Fans speculate for Bob didn't introduce those girls. I
speculate on one being Desiree Grabrielle (Bob's own daughter) but
not probable for anybody else. D. doesn't even know the
existence of that daughter. We'll find out later that they are the Mc
Creary sisters, one being Regina Mc Creary who was a back vocal
singer on 'Street legal'. They're trying to promote their album. Nice
gesture from Bob Dylan!
We
retrieve to our rooms for a glass of Blackberry Vine, D. ,
John, Mia and myself. I share with D. a room in a crappy
hotel. Material comfort is not my priority, so what the hell with the
broken table! My broken heart is bleeding.
XV
28th
of August, Columbus
On
the road again with D. . No show tonight but Youngstown is
five hours drive so we figure out we might as well do a bit of that
drive today. We snail on to Columbus. We spot a bowling bar on the
way to downtown. D. brags about being a good 'bowler'. He
wants me to try, to humiliate me? My first bowling roll is a strike!
I feel suddenly less dummy! Luck or talent?
After a beer in a
brewery we check in a Motel, not too good, not too bad. D. attitude
is weird. He'll leave the room in the middle of the night to go chat
with some youngsters who don't give a damned about Bob Dylan. I' m
left alone with the T.V.
We drag out in the morning.
Breakfast of pancakes and a walk in a park. I take photos, something
to feel proud about. I should be happy to have a ride but I feel
lonely without freedom. I'm distracted by all these encounters. I
repeat to D. "I'm on the road for Bob Dylan". D.is
looking for something, somebody, some 'attention'. A moment of glory?
That glory Mr Dylan is now annoyed with?
I'm
only passing through. My relative comfort restraints my liberty.
XVI
28th
of August, Youngstown, Ohio
We
arrive at the Youngstown venue shortly before 7.00 p.m. We park right
next to C. and S.. D. has a ticket to sell. He will sell it
to a stranger for 40$. He sells one to me for 80$. So much for his
friendship!
My seat is on the floor but far back. I move 4th row.
I will stay there for the entire show. D.disappeared. As soon as
he's surrounded by people, I don't exist. He's bragging about his
adventures with Bob Dylan. I know better than that. He's a kid.
Stu
is not on for the blues riffs. He will take the stage for the 5th
song ; 'Rolling and tumbling'. Nobody knows why and the speculations
will go on for the next days ... he's sick, Bob wants to get rid of
him, Bob wants to give the lead back to Charlie, testing the sound
without Stu's guitar ...
The public is cold, the front rows quiet.
I try to enjoy myself but some Yuppies are talking non stop behind my
back. Bob doesn't seem to care, he's barking his lyrics, he's moving
his legs.
He will start 'Things have changed' on center mike but
for some reason known only of him, he will trot to the grand piano
and start all over again. He looks stoned crazy.
I don't
feel Love but pity. The set list is no surprise, the routine. Is he
able to memorize more songs?
How long will he go on being the
ghost of Bob Dylan? the BobCats expect a lot from TEMPEST. They
expect a completely different tour in the Fall. I'm a lot more
pessimistic. The old man is getting old and not any younger.
Hopefully I AM wrong!
D. drives to the camping ground to
join John and Mia for a night under the stars. The moon is almost
full. We exchange few words about the show. Of course they disagree
with me. They need a reason to be following, accepting the truth is
not an option for them. Or am I wrong?
John, though, seems
to be bored with the shows. With D.we spend a night in the tent,
so close and so far. No kindness!
We
get up 6.30 a.m. with the light of the day. A cup of coffee, a
shower. I'm moody. D. tries to cheer me up. He's a good
heart. Not enough in the 'here' and 'now' for my point of view.
John
and Mia had left already when we take the road.
I try
to take D. out off his electronic devices. We finally have
a long talk. D. is patient with me, a 'good Samaritan' for
people he doesn't even know. I wish he could be more involved and
less superficial but D. is D. . I'm not around to
change people. And why should I? I might be selfish.
XVII
29th
of August Johnstown,
Pennsylvania
Driving
towards Johnstown. Some many years ago a dam broke down flooding the
entire city. The city had been reconstructed beautifully. Many
churches are splendid. We all believe Bob will sing "High
water".
John and Mia take us to the funicular overlooking the
city. Nice view up there.
We run to the show (we’re late),
reserved seat tonight.
I move as close as possible to the
stage. 7th row center on the aisle, so I can dance. Matt is here with
his mother. They invite us at their home after the show. We're happy
for we didn't plan anything ; no camping, no crappy hotel.
The
public is enthusiastic and Bob and the Band will respond to
that.
The show is great ; good sound, good humor (maybe he
even smiles but I can't see), good set list.
'Man in a long black
coat', 'High water', 'Saving grace' (THE surprise!),
'Blind Willy Mc Tell', ' Forgetful heart'.
It rocks and
rolls.
Bob Dylan is back. Why oh why not all the shows are like
that?
We chat with some followers, take pictures with C. and S.
and head on to Matt's house. We arrive at 1.00 a.m. take a shower and
both crash in a extra large King bed to sleep.
XVIII
30th
of August, Salisbury, Maryland
Matt's
mother is beautiful. She will make the breakfast of bacon, eggs and
bagels. We leave for the next show ; Salisbury by the beach, three of
us ; Matt, D. and myself. Traffic is dense we have just time for a
lunch of crabs and vegetables before heading to the venue.
5.30
p.m. I know the sound check is on. By chance the buses are visible. I
take a stand far away enough for not being seen by the security.
At 6.00 p.m. Barron appears at the backstage door. Next to him a tiny
man dressed in jeans and a sweater with the hood on his head. I'm the
only one around, I move closer to the security rail. Barron and Bobby
walk towards me. They both look at me and exchange few words that I
can't hear. I don't move. I expect deep in my heart that Bob will
walk up to me or make a sign ... Barron knows me, knows I'm not a
menace, knows I've been to so many shows. But the miracle will not
happen. My dear and sweet Bobby doesn't exist any more. This Old Man
will step inside his bus and remain there until the beginning of the
show.
“I’m
locked in tight, I’m out of range
I used to care, but things
have changed”
I
will come, a last time, at 7.30 p.m. to see Bob Dylan the Living
Legend walks his Dylan walk towards the backstage door surrounded
only by Barron and “Big Bob”. How sad!
I
run to take my seat inside the venue. I bought a ticket at the Box
Office. John and Mia had been in a fight. Mia wants to switch her
seat with me. I'm 5th row center but somehow I don't mind
anymore.
The crowd is a Yuppie crowd with the seated position. No
dancing tonight. I see “Big Bob” coming by the side of the stage
and asking the security to remove those "freaks" from the
rail! C. and S. have to move away. Mister Dylan doesn't want to see
his BobCats tonight.
The show is average. Nothing's moving in
there.
During 'Like a rolling stone' Bob seems pissed off,
knocking over his mike on the piano with violence. Something is not
according to his demands. His face is ugly. He's frustrated. He's
disgusted.
'This
dream of you' was great though.
John
who's seated next to me will leave at the beginning of 'Highway 61'
and murmur to the ear of D. ; 'The show is
over'.
No
magic, no 'Shot of love'. Bob was not with his public tonight.
That
was my last show of the Tour. Paradoxically I don't feel sad to
leave.
Tomorrow
we, D. , Matt and myself go to the beach, hoping for a nice
day.
We
don't even talk about Bob Dylan. We don't even listen to Bob Dylan.
We
swim, we enjoy a good meal and we drive back to Matt's house.
Matt
will go to one more show in New York.
John
broke definitively with Mia and put her on a bus to Mobile.
C.
and S. will go on to the end of the Tour being happy to be together.
Dave,
Jeff, Johnny, Tony, J., Charles, Randy, Asha, Lisa .... will do some
shows in the Fall.
Hopping
for the best.
D. will
go on his trip all by himself. I wish him the best in life.
Everything
could have been so different, for the worst or the best!
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